Tuesday, April 18, 2006
` Tuesday, April 18, 2006
The weekend spent in Prague was a super-duper-mega tiring one. Those familiar with my non-existent fitness level will be surprised to know that there are occasions where I do happen to make full use of my legs for some extreme brisk walking. Shopping is of course, one of the privileged activities. More on that later.
I've heard so much raving about this European city even from my colleagues, that forking out personal funds of GBP211 (ouch) for a return flight on EasyJet didn't deter my intention to visit during the Easter holiday season. I figured since the company was already kind enough to fund a 5-week London business trip, the add-on travel costs would be rather minimal. Or so I had hoped.
A couple of tips for those interested in the budget carriers departing from the various London airports for trans-Europe jaunts. Most locals I've spoken with prefer the Gatwick airport over the others, for reasons associated with accessibility, cost and comfort. Before you start happily booking your cheapo 8AM airfare, always bear in mind the costs of ground transfers, which include 30-40 minute one-way train rides from either London Victoria or London Bridge stations (budget around GBP20-25 return). Additionally, you will have to be at the check-in counter at least 2 hours before the flight to smooth out the ticketing, customs and what-nots. A potential logistical nightmare if you didn't plan things in advance and a lesson learnt for my subsequent trips.
The EasyJet flights were an extremely pleasant experience, with the exception of rather late check-in, boarding gate announcements and non-allocated seating. Nevertheless, the aircrew were extremely polite and efficient and flight arrivals were always earlier or on-the-dot. A budget carrier that is definitely worth recommending.
Upon arrival, there are several options to get from the airport to the city area. The most comfortable straight-to-hotel drop is offered by Cedaz but is a costly 480crowns (or EUR20) per way. Feeling slightly burnt at the pockets, I opted for the public subway and bus return. Trust me when I say this is an extremely viable option for those with light luggage. Simply take the subway (which reminds me of the one in London, right down to the escalators) to the end of the 'A' line and take bus number 119 which drops in front of the airport terminal. The journey takes approximately 20-25 minutes. All for a low, low price of 20crowns!
The main tourist attractions are all situated within walking distance from the Prague 1 precinct. I was fortunate enough to be placed in a hotel right in the heart of St. Wenceslas Square, after some technical glitches were announced at the brand new one I had originally booked. The Ramada Grand Symphony is literally gob-smacked in the middle of the action, 5 minutes walk from Na Prikope (shopping street), 7 minutes to the Astronomical Clock and 10-15 minutes to Charles Bridge towards the Prague Castle. I had loads of difficulty getting out of the very comfortable bed and nicely warm room, although breakfast was rather standard. It does appear that no matter where one stays for the night (even in Prague 2 or 3), no public transport (although there are ample tram, train and bus services) is really ever required, if one is up for a fair bit of walking and taking in the sights and sounds of a very compact city. Did I mention my limbs are still aching really badly up till today?
My first impression of the city was (this definitely being a personal opinion) a slightly more historical and grittier version of Zurich, albeit flooded with souvenir shops at all corners. Of course, the architecture and colours of the buildings are a sight to behold. It was especially fun navigating the area before Charles Bridge, all narrow streets and cobbled walkways. Weather-wise, it was very similar to London, as I encountered frequent light drizzle, grey skies and strong winds 2 out of the 3 days there. These were the days where you wished you listened to your mum about taking the umbrella. Saturday was uncharacteristically bright and sunny and the strolls along the parks and attractions definitely made my day.
Beer fans, take heart that one can take swigloads of Czech Pilsner with no real regret$. I got mine at every lunchtime for a mere EUR0.90 a pint at cafes and restaurants, way cheaper than Coke! Food is rather meat-and-potatoes-centric, but I recommend trying the tasty soups, which are a real comfort in the cold weather. There were several unusual Easter-related snacks sold at the bazaar near the Tyn Church and one of my favourites was 'Grandma's pancake', a very simple pita-based bread filled with Nutella. Yum. Two places to recommend for food and drinks, namely the Grand Cafe Orient for great ambience and coffee and Bohemia Bagel for a funky NYC-type vibe and good food. Prices are overall very reasonable for a city that is known to be rather expensive, with a 3-course meal starting from EUR10 including a tip, but don't expect great-tasting stuff in particularly the tourist-enroached areas.
Now on to my favourite indulgence mentioned earlier. It is somewhat disappointing for people like myself prone to visiting the same-label suspects in every new city, to find that there is only 1 accessible outlet for each brand. These shops can be found on the Na Prikope stretch. Yet, bearing in mind the high expenses chalked on the accommodation and other incidentals, this was one rare occasion that I was reining myself in on the purchases (still, there were 2 items).
Overall, a great weekend well-spent. It is a lovely city, filled with enough historical monuments to satisfy the culturally-inclined and also off-the-track surrounds that allow for quiet reflection. Next stop: Dublin!