the roads are getting nearer

Sunday, May 29, 2005

` Sunday, May 29, 2005

I've decided that in order for my blog to look more meaningful other than just the pseudo-tragic crap that I have a tendency to spout, here is a refined (trying to avoid the copyright of the "Rough Guide to..." travel series) shopping guide for the uninitiated to places that I've travelled to and scoured for the best finds.

Disclaimer: I'd rather you took it as a commentary rather than a guide because I may be biased and opinionated towards the definition of what 'good' shopping is, for which my definition is based on the conditions that nothing goes above S$100 and is well-worth the purchase!

First stop: Hong Kong. Some people would argue that Bangkok would be a much better place for cheap finds. I tend to agree, except that Hong Kong in the spring/summer season seems to churn out very attractive bargains. Recently, I also noticed a considerable effort to beef up on customer service (although I reckon the Japanese take the prize for the "courtesy is for free" campaign, if there ever was one). Try making an entrance into any shop and expect to be greeted by the Cantonese chirps of "Welcome, take your time to pick and choose. We offer XX% off all merchandise.". It's something I noticed that appears to be more of a mandatory service chant, especially when you try to reconcile the cheery voices to the somewhat bedraggled or hassled faces of the sales people, who look like they're cursing under their breath having to re-fold a stack of clothes after being messed up by the nth customer. Granted, retail sales jobs aren't the most glamorous and easy work, so credit to them for at least making the effort to sound friendly.

In no particular order of preference, here is my list of recommendations (and good news: even the tiniest shops take credit cards these days):

~Hong Kong Island~

1. Pacific Place (MTR: Admiralty)
Flanked by 3 swanky 5* hotels (Conrad, JW Marriott and Island Shangri-La), this is the place for people with high-end tastes, covering every imaginable luxury brand under one roof.
The classy department stores of Seibu and Lane Crawford are the main anchor tenants here, offering a gamut of famous names between them. As mentioned in my earlier blog, try not to dress too shabbily when you're in this area. You might find yourself noticeably 'under-dressed' as you'd realise that the sales people are decked out in extremely smart formal wear (the Louis Vuitton door person wears a suit!). Yes, that means crummy tees and flip-flops are best left in the hotel room.
The main attraction for me was the Nine West store on the first floor, which offered a wide range of surprisingly affordable and funky bags and shoes. If you're lucky and caught the right time to visit, they usually have seasonal sales where you get a minimum of 10% off your purchase.
Need a quick meal? Try the noodles and rice store on the ground floor foodcourt, which does really competent meals at affordable prices (but at 2 times the cost of equivalents in Singapore). A bowl of noodles/soup will set you back the same amount as the char chan terngs, but you may find that they make more of an effort to prepare and present the food in a more hygienic manner post-Sars. Starbucks fans alert: you'd be happy to find 2 outlets, one on the first floor, but try the 4th floor where there are plush cushions for chilling out with a cuppa.

2. Cityplaza a.k.a Taikooshing (MTR: Taikoo exit C)
This sprawling suburban mall has almost everything you need under one roof. Similar in concept to the equally expansive Festival Walk (MTR: Kowloon Tong), stepping into the shopping centre for the first time may overwhelm one with the element of space. The mix of tenants will tend to every family member's whims and yes, you can spend 1 full day here. There's even an ice-skating rink if you're feeling a little adventurous. Some worthy shop mentions:

- U.N.Y. : 3-storey department store targeted at fashionistas looking for the latest Japanese-inspired (and possibly imported) kawaii clothes, shoes and accessories at affordable prices. Look out for sale items which are heavily discounted.

- LOG-ON : Lifestyle concept store targeted at trendy ones with not-too-shallow pockets. You can find OZOC clothing and Camper shoes, as well as all manners of quirky knick-knacks (mainly Japanese-influenced) for the young at heart. You may end up browsing more than buying, but it's definitely worth paying a visit.

- COUPLE's, b+ac, www.izzue.com: These chain clothing stores offer funky threads at prices starting from ~S$35 onwards, but sometimes at significantly reduced prices, should you happen to crash in on the seasonal sales (which tend to occur for no rhyme or reason). Or by some strange coincidence your HSBC/Citibank credit card may entitle you to some bit of a discount.

3. Island Beverley (MTR: Causeway Bay exit Sogo department store)
This building houses 4 storeys of tiny clothing and accessories shops carrying the season's most updated looks. You can find the eternally-hip Birkies, costume jewellery and one-off pieces made by local designers. However, expect prices to be slightly higher than your typical highstreet outlet. Attempts to haggle will usually be met with lukewarm response. Sometimes they may not even bother negotiating with you. What a bugger.
Notable mention: the Eden shoe store (2nd floor) houses a range of very attractive pieces (esp. kitten heels, pumps and sneakers) at prices below S$100.

4. IFC Mall (MTR: Hong Kong)
Another one of those ubiquitous modernly built malls with top-of-the range boutiques filling every nook and corner for the ones with upmarket tastes. This place warranted a special mention mainly because of one particular label that I had developed an almost cult-like obsession with, resulting in the bizarre urge to locate at least one outlet in every city that I've been to (touchdown: Singapore, Malaysia, Zurich, London, New York, Tokyo, Toronto, Vancouver, Amsterdam and counting!). Yes, this is the only building in Hong Kong that houses the fashion mecca known as Zara. My new favourite bag-shopping haunt Nine West has a branch here. Oh, and Tiffany & Co is here as well, in case you're looking for exquisite bling-bling.

~Kowloon~

Most people visiting Hong Kong will end up staying in the more affordable Kowloon area rather than on Hong Kong island, which hosts the central business district and is noticeably quieter in the weekends, with the exception of the nightlife in the somewhat expat-dominated (and most likely overrated) Lan Kwai Fong area. For the hustle and bustle of value-for-money shopping 7 days a week, Kowloon is the place not for the faint-hearted (or reluctant male partners for that matter).

1. Tsim Sha Tsui area (MTR: Tsim Sha Tsui exit B towards Granville Road)
Step out of the MTR exit and take a deep breath before venturing to the gamut of shops stretched along adjacent lanes of Nathan Road. For This Fashion-like garb, head straight towards Granville Road, where you'll see women jostling each other for bargain finds in the racks of In Fashion and other similar competitors. Some may be put off by the constant buzz of people frantically searching the clothes racks for the latest fashion spin-offs at literally a-third off the prices of mainstream boutiques (quality notwithstanding). Keep exploring the area with shops spilling from both sides of the road and when in need of a footrest, try the ultimately satisfying array of fruit-based desserts offered at various branches of Hui Lau San (Cameron Road, Haiphong Road). You won't regret stepping in if you're a mango fan. I had to refrain myself from constantly thinking about the Mango Mania dessert for the 2+weeks in Hong Kong (for the record, I probably visited the place once every 2 days). For those with rumbling stomachs, Sanpachi (top end of Granvillle Road) is a must-visit for mouth-watering authentic ramen in different types of soups (miso/spicey/old-style). Highly recommended (been there 3 times myself).

Visit the massive but somewhat claustraphobic (no windows!) and maze-like Harbour City (end of Haiphong Road towards Marco Polo hotel) if you're looking for the usual spread of expensive labels and also to catch a photograph of the famous harbour view that is on every travel guide's must-do activity.

Those with weddings to attend or a bride-to-be may consider moving on to Beverley Commercial Centre, just a 5 minutes walk from Granville Road (turn left at the end of Granville Road and walk straight until you see a rather old black building). What was once a hip enclave of young designers has been transformed (possibly due to poor business in the past) into a place to find everything you need for a wedding or evening function. There is a tiny shop towards the left end of the 2nd floor claiming to supply the Singapore boutique BLUM. Although the shop is messy and the sales lady a tad aggressive with her selling tactics, do not be deterred as you will find very attractive BCBG-styled dresses and tops for ~S$80 onwards. Restraint is the key word here.

2. Mongkok (MTR: Mongkok station)
I didn't particularly enjoy the visit to this area, possibly because I have a rather strong aversion to crowds and this place was teeming with people on a Saturday. Imagine Tsim Sha Tsui's Nathan Road compacted into a smaller area with more people from all walks of life. Then of course, there's the evergreen tourist attraction known as the Ladies Market, which I had chosen to bypass this time due to the unbearable afternoon weather and crowd. For those interested in checking out electronic goods, this is probably a good place to start, as many chain stores like Broadway scatter the area, beckoning you with offers.
Special mention goes to the gleaming shopping mall known as Langham Place. Mall-weary shoppers like myself have developed a neutral (or non-excitable) reaction stepping into these places, due to the apparent similarity of the merchandise (and food outlets). Point is, if you've done one, you've probably done them all. The internal structure and long escalators of this scalable building reminded me of the once-glamorous Times Square in Causeway Bay, which seemed to have lost its lustre over the years.

I've spend 2 very fruitful weekends scouring the Hong Kong retail scene and in general, I must say that the somewhat booming economy is helping to boost the purchasing power of the people and tourists alike. The choices have increased, service has improved and in some aspects, intense competition has also made a lot of things more affordable. Perhaps it's because this is a business trip and hence I'm more willing to make voluminou$ purchases (there goes stuffing my poor Sammy again). But Hong Kong is definitely worth a visit, for one to feel the vibrancy of a city that never seems to sleep. Stamp of approval compliments of a chronic shopaholic. Stamp of non-approval from the traumatised wallet ("Stop stuffing me with receipts!!!").

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